Tamil Nadu is one fascinating South Indian state that has been attracting travellers from across the globe with its stunning architecture and cultural beauty. But did you know there’s a rural side of the state, which looks like an ordinary village road, and can suddenly open into a world of towering mansions? At first, you’ll find it hard to believe, because it’s all made of Burmese teak doors, Italian marble and Belgian glass, looks absolutely incredible but also hauntingly abandoned!The mystery of abandoned mansionsNow this is Chettinad, a historic region in Tamil Nadu spread across 73 villages and two towns. The place is said to have over 10,000 grand lavish mansions built by the wealthy Nattukottai Chettiar merchant community. As reported by BBC Travel, these once-abandoned mansions are drawing fresh attention now. Some of these abandoned homes are now being restored into heritage hotels attracting travellers and curious explorers.It’s something usual in Tamil Nadu’s tourism circuit. Here, the attraction is not one enormous monument or colourful temple but an entire landscape of forgotten architectural mansions.A village where eleborate mansions are the attraction
The mystery of abandoned mansions (PC: Instagram)
This is in Kanadukathan. The village will surprise you and does not look like a conventional tourist destination at first. There are dusty lanes, temples, local stores and artisans. Also you can’t miss out on cows wandering through the streets. Then, suddenly behind an apparently ordinary entrance, rises an enormous mansion, absolutely gorgeous.Some of these homes were built around expansive courtyards and ceremonial halls. These features elaborately carved wooden doors, painted ceilings, European-style columns and Athangudi tiles.UNESCO’s tentative-list descriptionUNESCO’s tentative-list description calls Chettinad as a network of 73 villages and two towns spread across roughly 1,550 sq km.The Chettiars created extensive commercial networks across Southeast Asia, including Burma, Malaya, Ceylon and Indochina. They were rich and their fortunes were spent also on building stunning family homes in their native region. They had access to world-class material sourced from Italy (Italian marble), Belgian, Burma and more.But the prosperity did not last forever
Abandoned mansions (PC: Wiki)
The sad part was that their prosperity did not last long. Wars, changing trade patterns, India’s independence and economic changes weakened the community’s traditional businesses. Younger generations increasingly moved away for education and professional careers and all these gorgeous mansions were left abandoned and simply neglected.Restoration processOne of the most interesting parts of a Chettinad trip is that some of these buildings are no longer simply relics. These are now becoming places where travellers can actually sleep, eat and experience the architecture.Sleeping inside Chettinad’s historyTravellers can stay at one of the restored heritage properties and sleep inside Chettinad’s history. The Bangala, Karaikudi, is perfect for travellers who want more traditional food and local cultural guidance. The hotel also offers cooking demonstrations and can arrange local guides to explore the architectural heritage.Another option is The Chettinad Heritage, located in Nemathanpatti. The property features 14 heritage rooms and is inside a family property with more than 120 years of history. Sounds so amazing, right?There are several other heritage properties across the region, including Visalam, Chidambara Vilas and Saratha Vilas. These are particularly appealing if the idea of staying inside a restored mansion is central to your trip.How to reach ChettinadBy air: Tiruchirappalli International Airport is closest. The journey from Chennai to Tiruchirappalli is roughly an hour by air, followed by a drive of about one to two hours into the Chettinad area.By rail: Karaikudi is well connected to Chennai, Tiruchirappalli, Thanjavur and Rameswaram.ShoppingKaraikudi has some spectacular antique shops which offer a more complicated glimpse into the region’s history. It is because some shops contain architectural elements salvaged from old mansions.Chettinad cuisine
This popular chicken curry is from the Tamil Nadu’s Chettinas region and uses a unique spice blend along with tomatoes, onions, cinnamons, and hot red chillies that are mixed and cooked with marinated chicken. The signature Chettinad spice mix typically includes roasted coriander seeds, cumin, fennel, black pepper, dried red chillies, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, and poppy seeds which gives this dish a unique identity and is now popular across India and even abroad.
No journey through Chettinad is complete without tasting its cuisine. When here, the heritage hotels offer traditional meals, including the ceremonial Raja Virundhu, or “feast fit for a king”.Chettinad with its abandoned mansions is more like visiting a polished palace museum.Some mansions are crumbling. Others have become hotels. And some still remain family homes. For anyone looking for a slower, more atmospheric Tamil Nadu experience, this is where you belong.
